My kitty cat has no rules. I feel like that’s the best way for him to live because when I got him he was an abandoned kitten. I found him underneath a neighbor’s porch. He was covered in oil and excrement, as though he had been living on the streets for a while.
I took him home, gave him a bath and used scissors to cut the mats from his fur. It’s been four years now and he has grown into the best pet any girl could ever ask for. There’s just one thing that bothers me – his nails are so sharp that he often accidently scratches me. That is why I use a pet nail trimmer to trim them twice a month.
The “crud” is particular to the Schnauzer breed, although other dogs may have the same thing, I don’t think it is as prevalent in other breeds as it is with the Schnauzer. The reason I mention this is because my veterinarian explained that the bumps were infected ingrown hairs.
I have discovered that the dog’s diet plays a significant role in the decreased amount of infected ingrown hairs on my dog’s back. I know that good nutrition plays a significant role in how I feel so I know for my dog to be his healthiest he also needs all the vital nutrients. I have always felt that our canine friends could live longer healthier lives if they received the proper nutrition.
I was feeding my dog, at least what I thought was good food. It was derived from whole foods. This food decreased the severity of the bumps but he usually had three or four of them at any given time.
I went on a search for a really good, healthy dog food other than making it from scratch, which of course, is the ultimate source of nutrition, but time consuming. I wanted the next best thing I could find. My search ended with Wysong Dog Food. They know that popular dog food processing kills the vital nutrients in the food. They have developed a state-of-the-art processing that retains the nutrients that our pets need to live long and healthy lives. So, I decided to try Wysong dog food. The point of telling you this is to tell you about my results.
The “crud” is going away and so is the dry scales on his rump! He had a couple of bumps that were there before changing his diet and those are decreasing in size but the most important thing is, he hasn’t developed any more. At any given time, he has always had a couple of these ingrown hair bumps and scaly dry skin on his rump. It was a continuous cycle of some disappearing and more appearing. Another important note: my dog’s breath isn’t as bad as it used to be. Since he was young I’ve brushed his teeth to keep the tarter removed, but it was also to help his breath. The last couple of weeks, I’ve been very busy and haven’t brushed his teeth and the other day I noticed that his breath wasn’t as bad as normal, even without the brushing.
I found this rather odd as the other dog food was very expensive and the best I though I could find. The only difference I see is in how the food is processed. Even if only the highest quality food products go into the food but they use extreme temperatures and other processes that kill the nutrients, then all that nutrition has gone to waste.
My dog has always loved his food but, he goes absolutely wild when it’s meal time now. There’s one that he really, really likes and that’s the Chicken and yogurt. Try it, your best friend will thank you over and over for the rest of their life.
If your dog has a dull brittle coat, skin problems, poor gums and teeth, dull eyes, and they lack energy and vitality, you may want to consider that the current dog food isn’t providing the essential nutrients your pet needs.
Older dogs have sensitive teeth. Often times hard toys that are made from wood can harm their teeth and gums. Rawhide bones can also chip and wear down an older dog’s teeth. Pet owners should take careful consideration when picking out dog toys.
The best options for aging dogs are plush dog toys. These toys are made with soft, non-toxic materials that are safe for your dog. Remember, veterinary bills are more expensive than plush dog toys.
We know our lives are lived in the fast lane, we hurry to work, work all day, stop by the store, rush home, fix dinner, help the kids with their homework, get their baths, put them to bed….and only after everything else is done do we “maybe” find time for our pets. This is reality. In contrast your dog’s day looks like this, they go outside before you leave for work, lay around all morning and all afternoon, you come home, let them outside, feed them, and they lay around most of the night until they go outside before going to bed at night.
Do we really wonder why they are bored and get into trouble? Do you get up a little earlier in the morning and take them for a walk? Do you stimulate their brain by taking some time to teach them new tricks? Do they have plenty of dog toys or dog chews to keep them occupied? When they do get to go for a walk do you take the same route day after day? Or if they get to go for a ride in the car do you take the same roads?
With a few changes, you can stir your dog physically and mentally. By changing the direction of their walks you stimulate your dog’s brain. Their nose gives them a tremendous amount of information to assimilate. By taking the same route day after day your dog is smelling the same “old” smells from the same dog and person that walks and lives on those same streets every day. When you change the routine and walk different streets in a different pattern they smell “new” smells, different dogs and different people. When you go for a drive, stop and let them out on the leash to walk around a little bit to see and smell new things.
The results of bored, physically and mentally unchallenged dogs! Don’t let this happen to your home.
I have a thirty pound Schnauzer and I have purchased two items that he just loves and when I get them out he absolutely wears himself out playing. I found them both at Cracker Barrel Restaurant. One is a plastic ball that has a weasel attached to it. You put a battery in the ball and it moves all around making the weasel jump, twist and turn as it rolls across the floor. The other is a battery operated mouse with wheels inside a round ball that rolls all over the floor. Of course, these types of toys can only be put out for your dog if you can give complete attention to the play time, these types of toys aren’t dog proof. Other good stimulating dog toys are the ones that you put dog treats inside for them to get out. You might want to visit our dog toy store for some ideas.
Another way to stimulate the bored dog is to keep them learning something new, such as tricks. Teaching your dog tricks and playing games also helps the bonding between you and your dog. While teaching them something new your dog is also getting your attention, affection and the sought after treat. Learning stimulates their brain and also helps to mentally wear them out. You know how it is when you start a new job and everything is new to you, your brain can absorb only so much at a time and your exhausted, right? It’s the same with your dog.
So, if you have noticed your dog has started doing things that are unacceptable, maybe they’re just bored, both physically and mentally. Try doing some of the things I haved mentioned above, such as: teaching your dog new tricks or changing where you take your dog on walks.
Trimming your dog’s toenails can be a tricky endeavor and very time consuming part of your dog’s grooming, especially if they have black nails and you can’t see where the quick is. Years ago, I began trimming my dog’s toenails with the common guillotine nail trimmer. Many times I would nick the dog’s quick and it would bleed and bleed. Even though I always had the septic powder available for those times, the nail still bleeds quite a bit before it stops. I always felt absolutely horrible when this would happen. It didn’t make it any easier the next time because my dog remembered that I hurt him the last time I trimmed his nails. So, needless to say, trimming the dog’s nails wound up being a struggle and I dreaded the thought of tackling the chore.
I have discovered a much easier way to do this and that is by using a coarse nail file. What I did was purchase a couple of cheap coarse nail files from the drug store and I filed his nails with those instead of cutting them with the guillotine clipper.
I have a small dog, so I would set on the sofa, get an old towel, lay it across my lap and have my dog lay either next to me or on the towel. If your dog is large then you may want to sit on the floor next to them. Be sure to have healthy dog treats handy so you can treat them when they behave well having the nail trimmed.
Begin by having them lay next to you and before you begin be sure they are in a relaxed state, then take one paw, hold a nail firm in your fingers and begin to gently file the nail. At first, your dog won’t be used to how the grinding on the nail feels and will probably jerk away. As they become acclimated to the filing of the nail, you can begin filing harder and more rigorously to speed the process. Trimming the dog’s nails in this fashion is less stressful for you and your pet. Plus, there’s no worry about nicking the quick and making the nail bleed. The finished length of the nail should not touch the floor when your dog is standing. Your dog’s nails need to be trimmed at least twice a month. If those nails don’t get trimmed the quick will extend longer inside the nail and it’s difficult to get the nail trimmed as short as it should be.
Be sure to purchase the very coarse nail files so that you can take off a substantial amount of nail in the shortest period of time. Using the coarse nail file can be a precursor to using the very popular Peticure that is advertised on TV. I have not used the PediPaws brand but would assume it works the same, although the one I use is not battery operated, it’s electric with a variable speed. I only mention this as I use the Peticure to facilitate the amount of time it takes to trim the nails and my dog adapted quickly only needing to get used to the noise it made.
This aspect of your dog’s grooming is such a very important part that it is necessary to find alternate ways of getting those nails trimmed. If the dog’s toenails are left untrimmed they will continue to grow and become jagged and split, possibly exposing the quick. Not only do the nails become jagged and split, but over a lengthy period of time, the dog’s feet can become deformed if their nails are left too long, which is painful for the dog.
Don’t give in or stop when the dog jerks his paw away, it’s just because they aren’t used to the grinding on the nail. If you let them relax and try again they will become used to it and realize that it doesn’t hurt.
As we embark on a physical training regime we must first start out slowly and gradually build our physical strength a little at a time. Dogs are no different, if they have been “couchpooches” they must also start out slowly and build up to greater levels of physical endurance. Dog agility training is great exercise for both you and your pet and a wonderful activity for bonding. But, start off slowly taking your time to be sure both you and your dog are in good physical shape before commencing on a demanding exercise program such as agility training.
Before beginning an agility program your dog will need to know general obedience commands such as sit, stay and the recall commands. In agility training the dog uses specific movements in, over, under and around agility equipment. If your dog doesn’t know the basic commands yet, they will have difficulty understanding what they are to do and will become confused and frustrated.
If your dog has been sedentary, it’s a good idea to ease him into a gentle, regular exercise routine before hitting the agility course. An agility program involves running, jumping, balancing and quick turns on and around equipment specifically designed for agility training and is physically demanding. Pay attention to your dog’s exhaustion level and attention span and take breaks now and then to give the dog a physical and mental rest. Increase the physical and mental demands only when your dog is ready for the next level.
By increasing your dog’s physical activity they will need additional nutrition, so adjust the amount of food your giving. You may look into changing the type of food so that they are getting the high protein diet they require. The dog will also be more tired and have sore muscles especially in the beginning. Make your training sessions short in the beginning and gradually increase the length of your workouts.
As you begin agility training here are some things to keep in mind:
Always have plenty of fresh water readily available for the dog.
Provide a cool, shady spot where your dog can rest.
Feed your dog a balanced high protein diet. You may want to consider a natural dog food.
Never let the dog become overheated. You may want to train in the morning or evening to avoid the heat of the day.
Keep an eye on their feet and legs for abrasions and/or cuts.
Especially at first, be aware that the dog may have sore muscles and stiffness, so go easy.
If you plan on attending a formal agility training program take note of where they hold the training, if it’s indoors make sure there is plenty of ventilation so your dog doesn’t become overheated.
And above all, make agility training fun for both you and your dog.
Beginning the process of dog training with a young puppy is a very time consuming endeavor but here’s a trick to make it a little easier. If your puppy is a small or toy breed it isn’t to difficult to catch up with and grab them, but if your puppy is of a larger breed you can spend half your time chasing them down. The one thing you don’t want to do is to let the puppy know that they can out run you. Once they discover they can run faster than you, you have lost the battle.
One dog training technique that can be used is to attach a leash to their dog collar when the puppy is out of their crate. Using the dog leash inside the home can present some problems though. If you use a traditional leash that has the cord looped in a circle for the handle, your dog will get caught on every piece of furniture in the house and the handle will catch under doors as well. To prevent this from happening, cut the handle off. If your like me, it will be hard to make myself cut the handle off of a “brand new” expensive leash. But, what you can do is either purchase a very cheap leash, or maybe a friend has an old leash you can have, or use an appropriately sized rope or twine.
By having the rope or dog leash attached to their collar you will be able to catch your dog when they attempt to run from you by grabbing or stepping on the leash. The leash is also great for getting the dog’s attention when using the verbal command “No”. It gives you better control without getting your hands close to their mouth and possibly receiving a bite while trying to grab their collar. A very important note, always be aware of where your dog is while on the leash because the leash can still become tangled around furniture legs and other obstacles.
If your puppy chews on the leash or rope you can remedy that by spraying “Bitter Apple” or a similar product on the leash.
No matter what room you’re in take them with you and shut the door or use a portable child’s gate. That way they are free to explore and learn and you’re right there if corrections are needed. This will also allow you to catch them before they do any major damage to your furniture or belongings. If they are misbehaving attach the leash to a door or cabinet handle or a piece of furniture to limit what they have access to and how far they can roam. If you do this for their first year they’ll become used to being with you and as they become older they will want to stay close to you even off the leash.
I’ve had several dogs in my time, but I would have to say that the most challenging one is Smokey who currently resides at our home. It has not only been a challenge to bring him around to our (the pack leader’s) way of thinking, which required obedience training, but I have to say that he has been the most rewarding one to train because of his intelligence, perceptiveness and his willingness to please. Although, his willingness to please was not evident until he relinquished his position as pack leader.
Schnauzers are very intelligent, curious, playful, loving, and affectionate. After saying that, I have to say they can be head-strong, defiant, possessive and protective (to a fault).
I’ve met several schnauzer owners who agree that they are very intelligent & loving dogs and they also agree that they can really try your patience because they will test and test you again to see if you are going to stick to the rules that you have established during your obedience training. Smokey is a little over 3 years now and he will still, once in awhile, test to see if he can sneak in the door without sitting first and waiting for the command to enter.
I have said to others, “that I’ve never had a dog who challenged me so intellectually”. The obedience trainer said that Smokey’s temperament and level of intelligence was that of the “pack leader” and Smokey was not willing to give up his birthright, at least not without a fight.
There was a time between the age of 6 to 8 months I considered finding a home for him other than ours, but the trainer at theobedience school kept encouraging me to stick with it. He said, “don’t get rid of him because those type of dogs will generally make greatpets“. He was right!
I am very happy to report that at 3 years old he has good manners (most of the time), is very devoted, loving, affectionate and brings to our life a great deal of joy and laughter.
Does your dog attack visitors at your home before they are barely inside the door? Is your dog absolutely out of control barking, jumping on you and rushing the door in attack mode? Yes, I understand and this is not an easy behavior to change. But it can be done and here are some basic dog training tips that you can use to change your dogs behavior when there is a knock at the door.
First, establish a boundary that your dog is to stay behind and you don’t open the door until they calm down and stay behind the barrier. Second, they are to remain there until your visitor comes into your home. The dog is not to cross the boundary to approach the visitor. The visitor can cross the boundary when the dog is calm and then allow the dog to sniff and smell them. The dog is not to jump on the visitor.
These are very basic principles and not difficult to understand, but can be difficult the first several times you put this into practice with your dog. You don’t need to wait for visitors to arrive to facilitate your dog’s training. You might consider having a family member, friend or neighbor assist you with the dog training. Have them knock on or ring the door bell, patiently wait until your dog calms down and is in their designated waiting area and then come into the house. Praise them with kind words and treats when they behave well. If you do this several times a week your dog will learn this faster than relying only on visitors. If you drill your dog in this frequently and early on in their training then your visitors aren’t outside waiting in the rain. Take a look…
A great tip that I learned from taking my dog through obedience training is one that will keep your dog from running past you and out the door as soon as they have the chance. So, our objective here, is to give you some tips on how to obtain this result.
Based on the layout of your home and the area around your front, side or back doors you need to designate an area approximately 4-5 feet away from the door where your dog is to remain until given permission to go through the doorway.
Once you have positioned them in their spot, tell them to “stay” and position your hand in front of your dog indicating for them to stay. If they move from their spot, reposition them, tell them to “stay” using your hand gesture, then move toward the door, if they move bring them back, have them sit and give the “stay” command as you move away from them toward the door. You will need to repeat this until they stay seated while you move toward the door. If your dog stays but moves when you actually open the door repeat the process until they stay seated even after the door is open. This is a good time for a treat and affection, then you can give the “release command”. It takes a couple of times of doing this before your dog realizes that they get affection and treats if they stay.
Tip: If you use the hand gesture every time you tell them to “stay”. Your dog will become accustomed to seeing the hand gesture and after some time you could see that your dog will respond to your hand gesture alone without giving the verbal command.
Your dog will react to and pick up on your frustration and exasperation during this and any training, so stay calm and speak in a firm but normal tone of voice. Now if your dog has remained seated, which is exactly what you wanted, but is overly excited, have your dog stay there for a little bit until they calm down before releasing them out the door. Having them stay until they calm down has another benefit in that it teaches your dog patience.
In the beginning, the dog training can be time consuming and a lot of patience is required especially if your breaking old habits. But, when they do it right, always reward with kind words, affection and a healthy treat. And remember, if your commands are given in a loud raised voice they’ll learn that a calm voice is not an authoritative voice and that you only mean what you say if you’re yelling. This is no different than with children, right?
This takes a lot of pratice and must be done everytime you let your dog out the door. But, once your dog has learned that this is the standard routine they will automatically sit at the door and wait for your command.