Archive for February, 2009
Perseverance in Dog Training
When we first began our dog training venture, one of the first things I learned was that I couldn’t give in and quit when he was being stubborn, just because it was taking too long or I was in a hurry or whatever the case may be. Now, I’m going to tell you about what occurred during our obedience training with the trainer and our dog, Smokey, who was no older than 16-17 weeks old. Even though we used the positive reinforcement method this will show you just how determined and defiant even a very young dog can be when they are unwilling to give up their “the leader of the pack” mentality.
We decided to use the term “chill” when we wanted him to lie down. We used “chill” rather then “down” because we wanted to reserve the term “down” for other situations. There was no doubt that he knew what the word “chill” meant. He had been drilled on it continually for a couple of weeks and when he was told to “chill” he laid down. We were at an obedience training class and the instructor said it was time to work with him outside where there were more distractions. And the distractions were abundant as the school was on the corner of a busy street.
We went outside and started to go through some of the drills, which went actually really well even with all the traffic and noise, but when he was asked to “chill” that was another story. Doing any further drills come to a grinding halt because he absolutely refused to lay down on the sidewalk or the grass. We tried everything, but he just flat refused. He is highly motivated by food and even his favorite dog treats didn’t work. Now, I want to point out, that if we had given up our dog would have considered it HIS VICTORY and from that time on his resistance would have become even greater over other things. I found this out early in his training before we acquired the trainer.
We spent a good half hour, if not more, just getting him to lay down. When his belly hit the concrete it wasn’t there for more than 4 seconds and he bounced back up. But, the result was, “he” gave in, not us. From that time on, we rarely had any more resistance from him when he was asked to “chill”.
The whole point here, is you can’t give in. You must follow through no matter how frustrated you get or how long it takes. I always allowed plenty of time when introducing grooming procedures or a new training topics. Hopefully, you don’t have a dog as difficult as ours was, but if you do, hang in there because our dog was an absolute struggle the first year. But, he turned out to be the best pet we have ever had and it was well worth the effort.
I’m so thankful that we didn’t give up on him or find another home for him, which there was a time it was considered. Smokey will be four years old soon and he is a real joy, he’s well-mannered and a very important member of our family. We’d be lost without him.
Our Schnauzer “The Necessity of Dog Training”
When we brought our 9 week old Schnauzer home, I thought “how wonderful he is, so intelligent”. I could tell he was a very smart dog. He appeared so well mannered and behaved that first week. But, little did I realize it was because he was just apprehensive and hadn’t taken ownership of his new home yet. When we would talk to him you could see the wheels turning in his head, as if he understood every word. And once we introduced him to his dog toys he understand that those were what he was to chew on and not the table legs, furniture, shoes, socks, etc.
He was very smart in those types of matters, but we couldn’t understand why he was so obnoxious and difficult to get along with about other things. We discovered later, it was when we intruded on his position or authority as the pack leader that he would become very ill-tempered. In his mind, we were totally out of line, especially when we were trying to set down some rules for him. In his mind that wasn’t the way it was supposed to work. He wanted things his way and was extremely hard-headed and persistent for a little guy.
It didn’t take us very long to realize that he was actually training us and how he wanted us to relate to him. How he had managed to manipulate his way into the “CEO’s position” of our household, I will never know, well, yes I do know, we allowed it. By the the time he was only 13 weeks old, we knew we needed help from a professional dog trainer who could educate us on how to handle him.
We began attending a regiment of weekly obedience training sessions with a dog trainer for several months. The first session started out OK, until the trainer said that we needed to use a different type of collar on Smokey. The trainer preceded to remove the thin fabric collar, which went OK, but when he started to put the metal choke collar over his head, Smokey went berserk! He was trying to bite the trainer and throwing his body all around like a tasmanian devil. The trainer went into action, grabbing the skin around the back of his neck and taking him to the floor, keeping him there until he submitted and calmed down. The squealing, screeching sounds Smokey made were horrifying and if that wasn’t enough he urinated all over the floor.
Then the dog trainer began asking a lot of questions. He wanted to know if Smokey was allowed up on the furniture, to sleep with us on the bed, did I have him on the leash inside the house, was I shouting at him, what was our feeding routine, etc. I thought he was being rather nosey, but soon realized he had a reason for asking.
After all, I wanted a lap dog, so of course, I was allowing him in the recliner with me, on the sofa and on the bed to play. The only good thing we did, was to start him off using the dog crate to sleep in.
The dog trainer explained that in the wild, the pack leader didn’t allow their subordinates into their personal territorial space unless the leader gave his permission and that didn’t occur all the time. So, first off, to establish ourselves as the leader Smokey could no longer be up on our laps or on the furniture for the first YEAR.
This was the most difficult part of the training because I wanted to hold him and have him on my lap all the time. But, it proved disastrous in just the first 4 weeks we had him.
We couldn’t let Smokey violate even the smallest of rules. When he got away with something that he knew he wasn’t supposed to do, he interpreted it as “my leader is weak”…. and since he perceived the pack was being lead by a weak leader he felt he could challenge us for that position.
For those of you who find yourself in this situation with your pet, you MUST establish yourself as the leader. Then, once you have established the rules you MUST be consistent. Keep your chin up, keep smiling and above all, know that there is a well-mannered obedient pet down the road.
Does Your Dog Itch, Scratch, Bite & Lick?
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Itch-And-Scratch-Bite-And-Lick! If your dog is continually scratching, biting and licking at itself, and is driving you crazy with its self-absorbed antics, take comfort. And if your dog has had numerous cortisone “shots” to “stop the itching”… be sure to read this article by Doctor Dunn.
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Itching and scratching in dogs:
One of the most common calls made to any animal hospital in America goes something like this: “Doctor, I’ve got to get this dog in right away. He’s driving us nuts. All he does is itch and scratch, bite and lick and he’s keeping us up all night!” My thought is that if the pet’s caretakers are being driven “nuts” by the dog’s scratching and licking, how awful must the poor dog feel? This kind of call to the veterinarian refers to a fairly serious case of pruritus (pruritus means itching). In reality there is a wide spectrum of causes and severity of pruritus in dogs with skin and coat trouble. Some dogs can spend hours romping through fields, digging holes, and rolling in the grass and still have no after-effects at all. Others, kept indoors and fed an excellent diet, may have severe skin disorders.
Let’s see if we can make some sense of this complicated and aggravating situation and try to answer the question “Why does my dog itch-and-scratch-bite-and-lick?”
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There are six main categories of dermatitis we veterinarians have to consider whenever a “Skin Case” is presented. Most skin and coat abnormalities can be defined by or placed in one of these categories: |
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Keeping in mind that there are entire textbooks written about these categories, you might understand why veterinarians often take a deep breath before entering the exam room wherein awaits a patient with “a skin problem”. Let’s look at each category, starting with the simplest - Environmental, and finishing with the most challenging - Neurogenic Dermatitis.
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Environmental Dermatitis - Patients in this category are physically and nutritionally normal, but present with signs of pruritus, hair loss and skin irritation. By careful discourse with the owner regarding diet, activity, medical history and Nutritional Dermatitis - Correction of these cases should be a “no brainer”, but even today, many veterinarians and pet owners really believe the “Complete and Balanced” statement on pet food labels. Unfortunately, many dogs and cats live their entire lives in less than optimum health because their caretaker feeds the least expensive food they can find… and feels secure in doing so because of that “Complete and Balanced” statement. In my thirty-five years of practice, I have seen hundreds of dogs and cats whose lives changed dramatically, and where the pet’s caretakers were shocked and surprised at the remarkable difference in their pets, by the simple act of providing the pet with a high quality, meat-based diet. Look at Nutrition in ThePetCenter.com for some common sense information about sound feeding principles. Take a look at the photo of a dog in less than optimum health that has been eating a “Complete and Balanced” diet for years. Without proper nourishment this dog’s entire body, not just its skin and coat, will be continuously in a state of stress. High quality, (more expensive!) meat-based dog foods seldom, if ever, create the kind of skin and coat seen in the photo above. If you feed dry commercial dog food, be certain that the first ingredient listed is meat such as beef, poultry, lamb or fish. PetFoodDirect.com displays a number of high quality diets and their ingredient lists, too, so you can compare all kinds of diets for quality ingredients. Will supplements help? Absolutely! But if the diet is a high quality, meat-based brand, the need for supplements is much less critical. It has been my experience that supplements such a Omega Fatty Acids, Vitamins and table scraps will always help a dog that is eating a generic, commercial dry dog food; and on occasion, supplements may even show positive benefits in a dog eating a high quality diet. Many types of dermatological problems are avoided if the dog or cat is consuming an optimum diet. In some cases, adding a supplement such as DermCaps, a popular Omega Fatty Acid supplement with a number of beneficial ingredients, is the key factor in avoiding repeated episodes of Hot Spots and other skin afflictions. If your dog or cat seems to lack good coat and skin health, consider upgrading the diet to a meat-based ingredient formula and adding a supplement such as DermCaps. Parasitic Dermatitis - The most common response a pet caretaker makes when they see their dog scratching and biting at itself is “I think he’s got fleas”. And sometimes this guess is correct. Dark, copper colored and wingless, and about the size There are a number of highly effective and safe flea preventatives your veterinarian can prescribe. Fleas are ubiquitous, but an understanding of their life cycle, where they hide in the dog’s environment, and utilizing modern pharmacology breakthroughs, no dog needs to be “driven crazy” with pruritus, hair loss, scabs and infections as a result of flea infestation. See a veterinarian’s discussion about fleas at ThePetCenter.com. Repeated exposure to fleas can trigger a hypersensitivity (an abnormal, excessive reaction) to the bite of even a single flea. Every veterinarian has been fooled into making a diagnosis of “allergy”, not even suspecting fleas, simply because no fleas were discovered at the time of the physical exam. This is a classic example of a Parasitic Dermatitis (flea bites) triggering a complicated Allergic Dermatitis (due to the flea saliva). Interestingly, the all-too-common tick rarely triggers pruritus or allergic reactions, but on occasion will leave an ulcerative lesion that is notoriously slow to heal. Chiggers, deer flies, and gnats (sometimes called No-See-Ums) can be considered nuisances and generally do not create remarkable systemic skin problems. Local treatment with first aid ointments generally is successful. Cheyletiella mites look like tiny spiders under a magnifying glass and are often called “Walking Dandruff” because upon close inspection it seems like little flakes of dry skin are actually moving about. Partly because they live on the surface of the skin, these tiny critters can be eliminated easily by using any common flea shampoo. And here’s a creepy thought… Cheyletiella mites can be transmitted to humans where they create, just like on the dog, alopecia (hair loss) with a dry, flaky, slightly pruritic skin surface. Sarcoptic mites are nasty critters! Also called scabies or red mange, they create very intense pruritus, alopecia, and inflamed skin with multiple small scabs often present. Sarcoptic mite infestation, more than any other entity, is frequently misdiagnosed as Allergic Dermatitis by even very competent and experienced veterinarians. There is a good discussion of Scabies in the Exam Room of ThePetCenter.com. Many veterinary dermatology specialists will not accept an uncontrolled “Allergic Dermatitis” referral case unless the referring veterinarian has first ruled out Sarcoptic mites by actually treating the dog for scabies. Do as many skin scrapings as you like, you’re not going to find these little rascals because, unlike most skin parasites, these burrow right down into the skin. (Even ticks simply hold on to the surface of the skin while they feed; ticks do not burrow into the skin.) Unfortunately, many dogs are treated with cortisone for a supposed allergic dermatitis when in fact these Sarcoptic mites are the cause of the pruritic, inflamed skin… the unnecessary cortisone eventually worsens the situation. Sarcoptic mites happen to have preferences… certain types reproduce and thrive on dogs, but they do not thrive on other species such as humans. Nevertheless, Sarcoptic mites from dogs can infest humans so if your dog has signs of scabies and you are itching and have little scabs, make sure you see your dermatologist (MD, not DVM)! Mention your concern about scabies mites. If your physician makes a diagnosis of scabies on you, your next call should be to the veterinarian to make an appointment to discuss the possibility of Sarcoptic mites in your dog… (the one that’s been getting all those cortisone shots for “allergy”). Then there are Demodex mites - also called “mange”. These little rascals do live and reproduce just under the skin surface in the tiny hair follicles and oil glands of the skin. Unlike Sarcoptic mites, Demodex mites can be seen on a skin scraping viewed under the microscope. They look like tiny cigars with stubby legs stuck to the front half of their body. Demodex is most commonly seen in young dogs. In adult |
Infectious Dermatitis - Bacterial, fungal and yeast organisms are notoriously obnoxious skin and coat pathogens. Fungal Yeasts, most notably a common contaminant of inflamed and environmentally stressed skin called Malassezia pachydermatitis, can irritate an already diseased skin surface. Especially notorious for creating long term, low-grade external otitis, Malassezia does cause pruritus and inflammation. Yeast infections typically create greasy, odorous and pruritic signs in affected dogs. The skin is stressed by the waste products of the organisms and responds by releasing histamine - which triggers further inflammation, pruritus and cell damage. If a yeast infection is diagnosed, there’s generally something else going on such as Hypothyroidism, chronic administration of cortisone medication or dietary fatty acid deficiency. Bacterial dermatitis rarely occurs spontaneously. Normal healthy skin has tremendous numbers of a variety of bacteria present all the time. If something upsets that balance, such as antibiotics eliminating one or two types, the remaining types have a free-for-all! Anything that damages the normal, healthy, intact skin will hamper the skin’s defense mechanisms. Any Environmental Dermatitis, such as contact with grass, plastic, an abrasion or moisture, can adversely affect the skin’s defensive barriers and opportunistic bacteria then have their way. Parasitic damage to the skin will allow invasion by bacteria and trigger the body’s healing defense mechanisms. A common affliction of dogs, Infectious Dermatitis often is so irritating that dogs will lick continuously at the lesion and undo The treatment for Infectious Dermatitis often includes clipping the hair from the area to allow the air to assist drying. The application of gentle topical medication is helpful as is the administration of oral antibiotics to fight the organisms that are deeply invading the skin. Yes, cortisone may assist in alleviating the stinging or itchy sensation, but may also suppress normal healing processes. Whenever an infection is present, the decision to use cortisone needs to be very carefully evaluated. A better choice may be antihistamines orally. Allergic Dermatitis - I’ll be honest. There’s no way to cover this topic in one article. Veterinarians spend entire weekends and lots of money attending seminars on this topic alone! It is common, it can be lifelong, it is a challenge to diagnose, and once identified it can be resistant to attempts at treatment. All the other categories of dermatitis must be ruled out (especially those elusive Sarcoptic mites) before a diagnosis of Allergic Dermatitis can be made. Food ingredients, synthetic and natural fibers, medications and pharmaceutical products, plant material and even dust all can trigger an Allergic Dermatitis. Even common bacteria on the dog’s skin can provoke an allergic reaction to themselves! These cases of sensitivity to normal resident bacteria are very challenging to correct. No matter what kind of allergic dermatitis afflicts the dog, the ultimate cellular cause of the inflammation and resulting “itch-and-scratch-bite-and-lick” activity has a common cause… the release of histamine from skin Mast cells, the deposition of antigen/antibody protein complexes within tissues, the dilation of some blood vessels and constriction of others, the release of toxic chemicals from broken intracellular structures, and chemical and physical irritation of sensory nerve endings. To what are dogs allergic? Take a look around you right now. Odds are that your dog could be allergic to half-a-dozen different substances in the very room you sit; that doesn’t even include microscopic substances in the air you and your dog breath! Food, carpeting, blankets, dust mites, mold spores in the air, pollen, plastic food dishes, furniture stuffing and ornamental plants all have the potential to trigger an allergic reaction in your dog. Food allergies are so common that pet food manufacturers have invested millions of dollars in research, development, promotion and delivery of “antigen specific” diets to help in the therapy of dogs with food allergies. How to allergies develop? Each individual’s biochemistry is determined by millions of genetic variables. On occasion, an individual’s various immune responses may over-react to a certain material and “learn” to recognize this substance in case of future contact with it. The offending agent is called an antigen. Flea saliva is a good example of an antigen that triggers “flea bite” hypersensitivity. When an antigen makes contact with the dog, the dog’s immune defenses - all primed and ready for a fight since it has previously identified the antigen as an enemy - set to work to disarm the antigen. Unfortunately, during the course of the battle (called an antigen/antibody reaction) side effects of the battle can cause tissue irritation, inflammation, swelling and cell destruction. That’s when we notice the dog going into the “itch-and-scratch-bite-and-lick” mode! There’s a biochemical war going on within the dog! Immunologists have classified a number of different types of allergic reactions. Skin and blood tests are common methods of attempting to identify what the patient is allergic to. Probably the most common type of Allergic Dermatitis seen in dogs is Treatment of Allergic Dermatitis includes topical medicated soothing baths, ointments and sprays. The use of oral antihistamines can neutralize some of the destructive effects of internally released histamine. More effective in alleviating the discomfort of allergies is cortisone. This potent hormone, normally secreted by the adrenal glands, can be manufactured commercially. Numerous derivatives of cortisone are used in pill, injectable, spray, liquid and ointment form. Caution: If you are sent home with a prescription for cortisone, or your dog has simply been given “a cortisone shot to stop the itching”, your dog may ultimately be worse off than before if the true diagnosis happens to be an unrecognized case of Sarcoptic mites! Be patient, yes, but be persistent, too. If your dog is itching, scratching, and licking, or if the skin and coat are not healthy appearing, you and your dog need a diagnosis before treatment is started. A key point to remember is this: There is no cure for allergies! All we can do is avoid the food, material or parasite that is triggering the immune response, desensitize the patient through immune modulation techniques, and assure that the patient is eating a high quality diet. Neurogenic Dermatitis – This group presents a major challenge to diagnose and treat. As a veterinarian I know I have classified a number of cases as Although rarely seen in cats, in the dog something creates an impulse to lick at a specific area of skin. Characterized by persistent, obsessive licking and chewing at the target area, lick granulomas may have an unknown origin. Commonly, though, most cases have a suspected cause such as boredom, separation anxiety, frustration, confinement, or even a minor physical origin such as a tiny abrasion that captivates the dog’s interest. The dog persists in traumatizing the area, which is usually confined to an easily accessible forelimb, carpus (wrist) or ankle area, and never allows the skin to heal. Repeated episodes of self-mutilation, partial healing, then repeated trauma and healing, result in severe and disfiguring scarring. Deep bacterial infections are common and permanent skin damage results. A Specialist in Dermatology and a Behaviorist may be the dog’s best friends in these cases of Neurogenic Dermatitis. |
See the photo on the right. Also see two photos of a tick in action… obtaining a blood meal and severely traumatizing the skin in the process. Go to photos…
dogs, Demodex cases seem to be associated with individuals that are stressed from disease, poor nutrition, immune disorders or a harsh environment. There is evidence that many cases of Demodex have a genetically transmitted immune protein deficit underlying its manifestation; the dog’s breeder should be informed of any cases of Demodex mites. If the dog is otherwise healthy, there are effective treatment protocols for Demodex. On the “itch scale”, Demodex causes very little pruritus. On the “baldness scale” Demodex creates mottled and patchy alopecia.
In summary, keep in mind that any dog whose skin and coat are not in optimal health needs attention because that dog surely does not feel well. Be patient with your veterinarian because each category of “Dermatitis” must be evaluated, categories need to be ruled out, and a final diagnosis needs to be established BEFORE proper, effective treatment begins. Expect laboratory work, skin scrapings and blood tests to be required to reach that diagnosis.
If your dog is suffering from Chronic Dermatitis, all is not hopeless. Be persistent in trying to identify the cause and then pursuing a treatment. And do not be bashful about requesting referral to a Specialist in Veterinary Dermatology. These experts work with severely affected patients on a daily basis and can be an excellent resource for assistance to those poor dogs that seem incessantly to itch-and-scratch-bite-and-lick. Resolving these cases invariably puts a smile on the veterinarian’s face, the pet owners face, AND the dog’s!
At last we can see the smiling dog’s teeth again… which, by the way, seem a little unhygienic. Maybe a Dental procedure would be in order. Let’s see, we have time next Monday…
Article from ThePetCenter.com
Brushing Your Dog’s Teeth
Brushing a dog’s teeth is becoming more and more accepted by dog owners and has become a part of the dog’s regular grooming. Especially, since we realize there are things that we can do to help our pets have healthier teeth and gums and a much sweeter smelling breath by simply brushing their teeth.
There are several kinds of brushes, there’s the single head, the triple head toothbrushes and the ones that slip onto the finger. When beginning, you may want to start with the type that fits over the finger, it’s a little softer and you don’t have to worry about the handle of a brush hitting and hurting their gums. Once your dog has become accustomed to having your finger in his mouth you will be able to graduate to the full toothbrush. A good brush, if your dog will tolerate it, is the three-headed brush because it gets both the inside and the outside of the tooth and gums with one stroke.
If the dog likes the toothpaste you’ve got half the battle won because he likes what he’s tasting. Even if your dog is older, it’s still not too late to start the brushing, it will just take a little longer getting them used to it. Introduce the process slowly, take your time, let them smell the toothpaste, taste it and then introduce the brush with
the paste. Let them chew on the bristles at first and then begin to gently move the brush against the teeth and gums. If the gums are tender, don’t brush too vigorously or it will make the gums bleed.
Given enough time and patience, on your part, your dog can become accustomed to the brushing and will have healthier teeth and gums. Along with the brushing, have the type of dog toys available for them that will help with the scrubbing of their teeth. This is easier on your dog than being put to sleep to have their teeth cleaned and much cheaper for you.
Has Your Dog’s Food Affected his Teeth?
Some factors that play into the health of your dog’s teeth and gums are the type of foods they eat, dog treats and whether you brush your dog’s teeth.
Let’s review the dog’s diet. Unfortunately, the dog food manufacturers give the illusion of how nutritious their dog food is by hiding the actual ingredients behind words we can’t pronounce and we, the unsuspecting, feed it to our pets. A good percentage are full of fillers, such as sawdust, meat byproducts (that can’t by used by any other industry, such as “roadkill”), colors and artificial nutrients. And our poor pets try to survive on thi
s stuff.
If you notice your dog’s teeth becoming coated with tarter and their gums are looking red and somewhat swollen, their diet may be the culprit. The good news is it can be avoided with the proper attention given to their diet. In severe cases, like the picture to the left, the dog would require a dental cleaning and possibly removal of bad teeth by a veterinarian. But, we can prevent or forestall this from happening by providing nutritious meals for our pets.
Feeding a healthy, balanced diet will give your dog the nutrients to support their gums and teeth. I am in favor of a diet consisting of food derived from all natural food products or a raw home prepared diet. There are some very healthy kibble dog foods that derive their nutrients from the natural ingredients in the dog food rather than dead artificial supplements. A raw diet is the most nutritious, although it is more time consuming. If you do feed a raw diet you can supplement with hard tarter control biscuits or natural treats and brushing their teeth, if needed. And, of course, have chew toys around that will assist with scrubbing the teeth and massaging the gums.
The natural nutrients in the dog food will balance the bacterial and chemical makeup of the saliva and the enzymes in the digestive tract, which will also have an affect on the dog’s breath. With the proper nutrients your dog will have strong jaw bones with which to support the teeth and healthy gums.
And last but not least, is brushing your dog’s teeth. There are several kinds of brushes and toothpastes available. Getting your dog used to having their teeth brushed just takes a little patience.
Dog Training Collars
There are several different types of dog collars and I’m going to discuss two types of dog training collars; the metal choke collar and the pinch collar. The choke collar is a useful collar and the use of this collar depends on the temperament and level of training of the dog. If the use of the choke collar on a dog produces nothing more than the dog choking and gasping for air it’s time re-evaluate whether this type of collar is appropriate. When the dog’s attention is focused on “the collar that’s choking them” and not fully on what you’re wanting them to learn then the collar is defeating its purpose. Also, if you use the choke collar for training you must give a quick tug and an immediate release of the leash so the collar will loosen. Care with the collar needs to be taken as the choke collar can damage the trachea of the dog if used inappropriately.
There are alternative collars , such as, the pinch collar that is used for training dogs along with other, very effective dog obedience training techniques. The premises of the pinch collar is when the leash is tugged it snugs up and has a pinching effect on the skin. It resembles the correction a puppy would get from it’s mother. To the dog it feels like the mother’s teeth around their neck. The moment you tug on the leash you have the dogs undivided attention and he’s not 
being distracted by the fact that he can’t breath, and the learning can begin.
The pinch collar doesn’t strangle or choke the dog. In order for the pinch training collar to work effectively it must be adjusted to fit the dog’s neck correctly. These collars are made with links that are easily added or removed for a proper fit. When properly adjusted you get the dog’s attention with the slightest tug and there’s no damage done to the dog’s throat. If other dog collars don’t seem to be working you might want to give the pinch collar a try.
Dog Training Tip - Who Eats First?
The first step in dog training is to establish who the “leader of the pack or the boss” will be and of course that should be you and not the dog. One, of several, things to do is to relate to the dog in the terms or language that they will understand. Here is one tip and it begins with what to do before you feed your dog.
In a wild pack of dogs, one of the things you will notice is the “leader of the pack” will eat first. There is a very good reason for this and that is to assure the survival of the pack. The rest of the pack will eat after the pack le
ader in their respective pecking order. This is a very important “pack rule” and it is adhered to by all members of the pack. Even the very young learn this as soon as they are weaned from their mother and begin eating the food provided by the pack members.
Are you wondering why this is important? It’s important, because when you begin your dog training there’s one way to impress upon them who the “leader of the pack” is. That’s by letting your dog see you eat first before they eat. To begin, prepare your dog’s food and set it up where he can’t get to it. Then grab yourself some munchies, say a cookie or veggies, anything will do. Then stand by the dog dish and act like you are eating some of his food and make sure he is watching you. This simple act reinforces to the dog that you are the boss in terms that he understands. You need to do this everytime they are fed. Remember, consistency is a very important element to dog training. This is a very simple step and it speaks volumns to the dog. Try it.
Training Tools To Perfect Dogs’ Behavior
If you are going to train your dog for obedience or agility skills, you will need tools to help in the training. Of the tools you can use is the dog training collar. There are lots of collars to choose from so you can find the perfect collar for your training needs.
There are remote electric dog collars that have different functions. It has a working range of up to 200 meters so your dog can be running far and you will still be able to control them. They are easy to use and easy to bring along anywhere. It is a great tool to have especially if your dog is stubborn and needs a little more prodding. You will really see a change with just a few days of use with this great tool.
Make Sure Your Dogs’ Food Is Safe Food
One way to reward your dog for doing a great job is to give him dog treats. They will really enjoy this and will want more. So, don’t just give any food and treats to your dog. You have to check if the food is safe so they will remain healthy.
There are so many different treats that you can buy for your dog. You can find pizza flavored treats, liver biscotti, dog brownies and even dog cookies. Your dogs can really have an assortment of treats that they can enjoy after doing a good job in training or for just being a great pet. You can be sure that they are made with the best organic ingredients. You have to be cautious with what you feed your dog since a lot of other dog foods have been recalled already.
Does Your Dog have Allergies?
It’s common that dogs have skin problems, but did you know that many times it can be caused by food allergies. This ailment can be very distressing to the dog. One of the tell-tale signs of allergic reactions due to sensitivities to different foods is skin irritations. The allergies can produce itching and will be apparent by the dog scratching and biting at himself around the ears, eyes, th
roat, underarms, legs and feet. The constant irritation due to the scratching and biting only exasperates the already irritated areas of the skin. If left unattended the scratched areas become raw with a potential for secondary infections.
Some of the foods that are common irritants or allergens to the dog are: beef, chicken, dairy products, eggs, wheat, corn and soy. Although, dogs can be allergic to other foods than those listed and they can be sensitive to more than just one type of food. One alternative would be to switch to a natural dog food that is made with human grade food products without all the additives to see if that stops the scratching. It could be that they are allergic to the chemicals used as preservatives and for coloring.
If the change in his diet doesn’t stop the scratching, be sure to have your veterinarian examine your pet to determine if the skin condition is related to a specific food allergen. The veterinarian can perform an elimination test diet to determine the food culprit(s). If the test confirms the food allergy then there are many “hypoallergenic” dog foods that will not have the offending food present. If it is determined that no allergies exist, your veterinarian has other tests that can be performed to try to determine the cause of the itching and scratching.