Archive for the 'Training & Obedience' Category

The head-strong schnauzer or the tasmanian devil?

July 12, 2009
posted by breezy

When we brought our 9 week old Schnauzer home, I thought how wonderful he is, so intelligent. I could tell he was a very smart dog. He walked beside me on the leash, didn’t pull, didn’t make a fuss about the collar or anything. When talking to him you could see the wheels turning in his head, as if he understood every word. Once introduced to his toys he seemed to understand that those were what he was to chew on and not the table legs, furniture, corner of the walls, or our shoes or socks.

He was very smart in those types of matters, but I couldn’t understand why he was so obnoxious and difficult to get along with about other things. We discovered later, it was when we intruded on his position or authority as the pack leader that he would become very ill-tempered. In his mind, we were totally out of line, out of control and we were not adhering to his rules and he felt it was his job to set the household right again.

It didn’t take us very long to realize that he was actually training and manipulating us in how he wanted us to relate and respond to the rules he was establishing.  How he had managed to manipulate his way into the “CEO’s position” of our household, I will never know, well, yes I do know, we allowed it.  By the the time he was only 13 weeks old, we knew we needed help from a professional dog trainer.

We began attending a regiment of weekly obedience training sessions with a dog trainer for several months. The first session started out OK, until the trainer said that we needed to use a different type of collar on Smokey. The trainer preceded to remove the thin fabric collar, which went OK, but when he started to put the metal choke training collar over his head, Smokey went berserk! He was trying to bite the trainer and throwing his body all around like a tasmanian devil. The trainer went into action, grabbing the skin around the back of his neck and forcing him to the floor, keeping him there until he submitted and calmed down. The squealing, screeching sounds Smokey made was horrifying and if that wasn’t enough he urinated all over the floor.

click meThen the dog trainer began asking a lot of questions. He wanted to know if Smokey was allowed up on the furniture, to sleep with us on the bed, did I have him on the leash inside the house, was I shouting at him, what was our feeding routine, etc. I thought he was being rather nosey, but soon realized he had a reason for asking.

After all, I wanted a lap dog, so of course, I was allowing him in the recliner with me, on the sofa and on the bed to play. The only good thing we did, was to start him off using the dog crate to sleep in.

The dog trainer explained that in the wild, the pack leader didn’t allow their subordinates into their personal territorial space unless the leader gave his permission. So, first off, to establish ourselves as the leader Smokey could no longer be up on our laps or on the furniture for the first YEAR. We, as the pack leader, could intrude on his territory any time we chose.

This was the most difficult part of the training because I wanted to hold him and have him on my lap all the time. But, it proved disastrous in just the first 4 weeks we had him.

We couldn’t let Smokey violate even the smallest of rules. When he got away with something that he knew he wasn’t supposed to do, he interpreted it as “my leader is weak”…. and since he perceived the pack was being lead by a weak leader he felt he could challenge us for that position.

For those of you who find yourself in this situation with your pet, you MUST establish yourself as the leader. Then, once you have established the rules you MUST be consistent. Keep your chin up, keep smiling and above all, know that the light at the end of the tunnel is not an oncoming train, it’s the disciplined, well behaved dog you have always dreamed of having!

Are No-Bark Dog Collars Really Effective?

June 15, 2009
posted by breezy

There are several no-bark dog collars on the market.  But, before purchasing you should give some consideration to what your circumstances are and when you will want to use the n0-bark collar.  These no-bark electronic collars come with a variety of features.  First, you have the basic no-bark collar that has a sensor that detects when the dog barks, which is a noise or sound sensor.  With these basic no-bark collars the electrical stimulation occurs when your dog barks, but they can also emit an electric shock to the dog when a loud noise is detected other than your dog barking.  Loud noises such as dropping something, a loud ringer on a phone, other dogs barking, shutting a car door, a car horn or children yelling can trigger the sensor.   When your dog receives an electric shock that has nothing to do with them barking it is very confusing for the dog.  If this basic type of collar is used, you should be very careful not to have the collar on your dog when children are present or you anticipate a situation where a lot of noise could have the potential for triggering the sensor on the collar.

no-bark-collarA better choice might be the no-bark dog collar that has a motion sensor along with the noise sensor.  The sensors must be activated simultaneously before the shock is administered.  This type of collar is better suited for families with children and who have more than one dog in the household, than the collar with only the noise sensor.  The motion sensor must be activated by the vibration or movement in the dog’s throat along with detecting sound before the electrical stimulus is given.  This prevents an accidental shock being administered to the dog due to other loud noises or other dogs barking triggering the collar.  Many of the collars with both the motion and sound sensors also have adjustable levels of stimulus, which is important.  Not all dogs have the same level of  tolerance.  You should begin at the lowest level of stimulus and increase in small increments until your dog responds to the correction.

We moved to an area close to a University and the students are walking past our house all day long.  My dog is a good watch dog, which means he alerts us to everything happening in the neighborhood and this gets old after a while.  I have worked and worked with him to get him used to all the people walking down the street, but he hasn’t responded the way I hoped.  I finally decided to try the no-bark collar and was quite surprised to see how quickly he responded.  It didn’t take him long to figure out that when he barked, he got shocked.   He barked only once at two different people and then sat on his chair on the front porch and just watched the rest go by.

There’s something else I noticed and that’s when he’s barking his level of physical excitement escalates.  The other day, he had his collar on when my husband came home from work, he didn’t bark at him and he always barks, his level of excitement was less, not all the jumping up and down and running around his feet.   And, he calmed down much quicker than what his normal routine usually lasted.  I wonder if the act of barking releases adrenaline or some other chemical that escalates the dog’s physical excitement level?  When the use of the collar stops the barking, then no biological chemicals are being released and the dog is calmer.  Humm… does any one know if this scenario has any validity?  Or do we just have an unusual dog?

Anyway, I thought I would pass along my observations and to point out the different collar options to consider before purchasing a no-bark collar, in case anyone is considering one for their dog.  The collar has proved very effective in our situation and I no longer have to usher our dog into the house and shut the door to keep him from barking.  Now our dog is enjoying the summer afternoons on the front porch with us.

ON SALE JUNE 1 through JUNE 2!  The Bark-Control Dog Collar for only $39.95 (Retail $59.99) a 33% savings!

Now that the weather is nice, you and your dogs want to be outside.  Only one problem, your dogs are uncontrollable barkers!  The electronic dog collar can help break your dogs from barking at the birds, squirrels, the neighbors outside, people walking down the sidewalk, kids playing outside and cars driving by.  The question is “How do I stop my dog from barking so much?”  Dog training with specific dog training techniques do work but can be a lengthy process.  But, by using a bark-control dog collar it makes barking a thing of the past and assists you in training your dog not to bark at everything that moves.  Using the electronic dog collar along with verbal command of “No” or “No Bark” and a dog treat will, in short time, train your dog to respond to just the verbal command.

In today’s economy, it’s nice to find the products you want at exceptional prices.

ON SALE JUNE 1 through JUNE 2!  The Bark-Control Dog Collar for only $39.95 (Retail $59.99) a 33% savings!


PetSafe PBC-102 No-Bark Collar


bark-control-dog-collar

Product Features

* Bark-control collar sends harmless s

tatic shock to the dog whenever it barks

* Adjustable nylon collar senses vibration in dog’s throat during barking

* Lightweight receiver perfect for toy or small breeds

* Includes water-resistant receiver, operating manual and

replaceable 6-volt battery

* Receiver measures 1.75 x 1 x 1.25 inches; limited lifetime warranty

Product Description
Curtail your dog’s excessive barking with this harmless, easy-to-use nylon collar. Insert the included 6-volt battery into the lightweight receiver, and fasten the adjustable collar around the dog’s neck. When the dog barks, the collar senses the vibrations in the pet’s throat and emits a mild static shock and an audible warning beep. There are 6 progressive correction levels, so if the dog barks again within 30 seconds, the next shock will be stronger, though not too strong for small or timid dogs. For safety, if the dog barks 15 times in less than 50 seconds, the collar shuts off automatically for a period of 3 minutes.

The collar is designed to train the dog, not punish it, and the shocks are not harmful. According to a Tuskegee University study, adult shelter dogs wearing the PetSafe No-Bark Collar for 6 30-minute sessions over a 2-week period showed no long-term adverse effects, and they all reduced their barking by the second day.

The 2.3-ounce receiver works with dogs weighing from 15 to 120 pounds. It is water-resistant and not affected by rainy or snowy conditions. The pure digital signal eliminates interference from stray signals, and is approved by the FCC. The collar includes PetSafe’s limited lifetime warranty.

Customer Review:

4 out of 5 stars Solid product - effectiveness depends on the source of the barking problem.,

May 24, 2009
By Mrs Dee “Dee” (Los Angeles, California)

We’ve only had this product for about 10 days, but I see how effective it is.. and under what circumstances it DOESN’T work. I tried it on our 1 year old Shih-Tsu who barks at every single little noise, because he’s trying to establish himself as the boss/top dog and it worked very, very well. He just stopped barking while we had it on him and we’ve noticed a huge reduction in his barking overall. We’ve also got an 8 year old terrier mix who has very tics and neurosis and he barks much of the time because he feels threatened or nervous. The bark collar forces him to bark less but doesn’t stop him so we’re working on that.

If your dog is ‘nuisance barking’ just for the hell of it, this collar is an excellent solution. If there’s another underlying cause then of course this collar isn’t going to work a miracle, though combined with addressing those issues directly it could be very effective.

Training a Dog Good Manners

May 20, 2009
posted by Shopping4MyBestFriend

dog-train

It can be difficult for an owner to take their dog to manners class with a professional trainer both in terms of cost and time.  In addition, hiring a trainer to come to the home can also be a hassle.  For dog owners who don’t have a lot of free time, dog training videos and books tend to be the best options.  While there isn’t the same sense of receiving hands-on training with a professional, most dog training videos and books provide the same lessons and tips as the professionals.  The best part of these videos and books is that owners can learn at their own pace.  The best time to start teaching a dog is while they’re still puppies, but it’s possible to train a dog of any age.  It’s important to practice patience when training because dogs will learn at a much slower pace than people, and it doesn’t make sense to get frustrated. 

While some dogs are more intelligent than others, all dogs can learn the basics with just a little love and effort on the behalf of their owners.  Make sure to keep ample treats on hand for rewards!

Dog Training for Dog Safety

April 19, 2009
posted by breezy

I know from personal experience, how important dog training really is and how it comes into play in every day life.  When your dog has no training and doesn’t know the basic commands you have potential accidents just waiting to happen.  Not only the danger it presents to your dog but it could also mean an expensive trip to the vet.  When your dog is told to “stay” and they don’t, it can lead to a very unfavorable or serious ending depending on the situation.

dove-dog-training3As an example, you have dropped a pill, a prescribed medication, on the floor and the dog comes running after it, you tell them to “stay” but they don’t and they lap up the pill before you can get to it … what do you do now?  Depending on the medication it probably means a trip the veterinary doctor.  Your dog is now at risk because they were not properly trained in the basic commands.  And you may have a very expensive veterinarian bill waiting for you.

I can personally tell you that I have had to extract, an open safety pin, a sewing needle, a whole chocolate candy bar that was thrown over our fence, and numerous other dangerous items out of my dog’s mouth.  No matter how diligent we are about keeping dangerous items such as sewing needles, safety pins, small parts of children’s toys, cleaning agents, or inappropriate foods out of their reach sometimes they just seem to “zone” in on the things they shouldn’t have.  Even with the dog being trained in the basic commands they can and probably will find something of interest to chew on that they shouldn’t have.  So it is a good idea to get your dog used to having your fingers in his mouth in case you need to extract a potentially dangerous object.

The basic dog training commands such as; sit, stay, and the recall (come to you) commands are at the very least what your dog should know and respond to without question.

When my Schnauzer was just a pup he was familiar with sit and stay and responded to those commands but, he often found dangerous items without me being aware of it at the time.  He also learned the “out” command right away because he was like a mini vacuum cleaner and found everything that was on the floor or in the yard that I had no idea was there.  It was at this time, when he was very young, that I had to fish the open safety pin, the sewing needle and the whole candy bar out of his mouth.  And since that time, he has learned to release his jaws when he is told “out” and he allows me to dig in his mouth to remove the foreign object that he shouldn’t have.  That’s not the most pleasant thing to do, but it is important, that you prevent your dog from swallowing  these types of things.

If your dog knows the sit, stay and recall commands,when something lands on the floor you can have the assurance that when you tell them to sit or stay they respond, you can retrieve the object before they get it in their mouth.  Then life is good because the potential accident was prevented.  Another aspect to consider is pet insurance because you never know when that time will come when you weren’t able to prevent the accident or your dog becomes ill, and treatment can be very expensive.  You can read more about pet insurance in my January 31, 2009 article.

My advice, especially to new dog owners, is to train them immediately in the sit, stay and recall commands as soon as you get them home. Use treats to reinforce the positive responses when they are young and just learning.  And if you don’t know how to train your dog in the basic commands and want advice on good methods of  training, we have two dog training programs that provide you with easy to follow techniques of  teaching your dog these and many other commands.  Having a well trained dog is for their welfare and your peace of mind.

Take the boredom out of your dog’s life.

March 15, 2009
posted by breezy

We know our lives are lived in the fast lane, we hurry to work, work all day, stop by the store, rush home, fix dinner, help the kids with their homedog-napwork, get their baths, put them to bed….and only after everything else is done do we “maybe” find time for our pets.  This is reality.  In contrast your dog’s day looks like this, they go outside before you leave for work, lay around all morning and all afternoon, you come home, let them outside, feed them, and they lay around most of the night until they go outside before going to bed at night.

Do we really wonder why they are bored and get into trouble?  Do you get up a little earlier in the morning and take them for a walk?  Do you stimulate their brain by taking some time to teach them new tricks?  Do they have plenty of dog toys or dog chews to keep them occupied?  When they do get to go for a walk do you take the same route day after day?  Or if they get to go for a ride in the car do you take the same roads?

With a few changes, you can stir your dog physically and mentally.  By changing the direction of their walks you stimulate your dog’s brain.  Their nose gives them a tremendous amount of information to assimilate.  By taking the same route day after day your dog is smelling the same “old” smells from the same dog and person that walks and lives on those same streets every day.  When you change the routine and walk different streets in a different pattern they smell “newdogs-destroying-pillow1” smells, different dogs and different people.  When you go for a drive, stop and let them out on the leash to walk around a little bit to see and smell new things.

The results of bored, physically and mentally unchallenged dogs! Don’t let this happen to your home.

I have a thirty pound Schnauzer and I have purchased two items that he just loves and when I get them out he absolutely wears himself out playing.  I found them both at Cracker Barrel Restaurant.  One is a plastic ball that has a weasel attached to it.  You put a battery in the ball and it moves all around making the weasel jump, twist and turn as it rolls across the floor.  The other is a battery operated mouse with wheels inside a round ball that rolls all over the floor.  Of course, these types of toys can only be put out for your dog if you can give complete attention to the play time, these types of toys aren’t dog proof.  Other good stimulating dog toys are the ones that you put dog treats inside for them to get out.  You might want to visit our dog toy store for some ideas.

Another way to stimulate the bored dog is to keep them learning something new, such as tricks.  Teaching your dog tricks and playing games also helps the bonding between you and your dog.  While teaching them something new your dog is also getting your attention, affection and the sought after treat.  Learning stimulates their brain and also helps to mentally wear them out.  You know how it is when you start a new job and everything is new to you, your brain can absorb only so much at a time and your exhausted, right?  It’s the same with your dog.

So, if you have noticed your dog has started doing things that are unacceptable, maybe they’re just bored, both physically and mentally.  Try doing some of the things I haved mentioned above, such as: teaching your dog new tricks or changing where you take your dog on walks.

Your Dog’s Toenails - Tips for Trimming

March 14, 2009
posted by breezy

Trimming your dog’s toenails can be a tricky endeavor and very time consuming part of your dog’s grooming, especially if they have black nails and you can’t see where the quick is.  Years ago, I began trimming my dog’s toenails with the common guillotine nail trimmer.  Many times I would nick the dog’s quick and it would bleed and bleed.  Even though I always had the septic powder available for those times, the nail still bleeds quite a bit before it stops.  I always felt absolutely horrible when this would happen.  It didn’t make it any easier the next time because my dog remembered that I hurt him the last time I trimmed his nails.  So, needless to say, trimming the dog’s nails wound up being a struggle and I dreaded the thought of tackling the chore.

I have discovered a much easier way to do this and that is by using a coarse nail file.  What I did was purchase a couple of cheap coarse nail files from the drug store and I filed his nails with those instead of cutting them with the guillotine clipper.

I have a small dog, so I would set on the sofa, get an old towel, lay it across my lap and have my dog lay either next to me or on the towel.  If your dog is large then you may want to sit on the floor next to them.  Be sure to have healthy dog treats handy so you can treat them when they behave well having the nail trimmed.

Begin by having them lay next to you and before you begin be sure they are in a relaxed state, then take one paw, hold a nail firm in your fingers and begin to gently file the nail.  At first, your dog won’t be used to how the grinding on the nail feels and will probably jerk away.  As they become acclimated to the filing of the nail, you can begin filing harder and more rigorously to speed the process.  Trimming the dog’s dog-paw-with-long-nailsnails in this fashion is less stressful for you and your pet.  Plus, there’s no worry about nicking the quick and making the nail bleed.  The finished length of the nail should not touch the floor when your dog is standing.  Your dog’s nails need to be trimmed at least twice a month.  If those nails don’t get trimmed the quick will extend longer inside the nail and it’s difficult to get the nail trimmed as short as it should be.

Be sure to purchase the very coarse nail files so that you can take off a substantial amount of nail in the shortest period of time.  Using the coarse nail file can be a precursor to using the very popular Peticure that is advertised on TV.  I have not used the PediPaws brand but would assume it works the same, although the one I use is not battery operated, it’s electric with a variable speed.  I only mention this as I use the Peticure  to facilitate the amount of time it takes to trim the nails and my dog adapted quickly only needing to get used to the noise it made.

This aspect of your dog’s grooming is such a very important part that it is necessary to find alternate ways of getting those nails trimmed.  If the dog’s toenails are left untrimmed they will continue to grow and become jagged and split, possibly exposing the quick.  Not only do the nails become jagged and split, but over a lengthy period of time, the dog’s feet can become deformed if their nails are left too long, which is painful for the dog.

Don’t give in or stop when the dog  jerks his paw away, it’s just because they aren’t used to the grinding on the nail.  If you let them relax and try again they will become used to it and realize that it doesn’t hurt.

Happy toenail trimming!

Thinking about Dog Agility Training?

March 11, 2009
posted by breezy

As we embark on a physical training regime we must first start out slowly and gradually build our physical strength a little at a time.  Dogs are no different, if they have been “couchpooches” they must also start out slowly and build up to greater levels of physical endurance.  Dog agility training is great exercise for both you and your pet and a wonderful activity for bonding.  But, start off slowly taking your time to be sure both you and your dog are in good physical shape before commencing on a demanding exercise program such as agility training.

Before beginning an agility program your dog will need to know general obedience commands such as sit, dog-on-seasaw-agilitystay and the recall commands.  In agility training the dog uses specific movements in, over, under and around agility equipment.  If your dog doesn’t know the basic commands yet, they will have difficulty understanding what they are to do and will become confused and frustrated.

If your dog has been sedentary, it’s a good idea to  ease him into a gentle, regular exercise routine before hitting the agility course.  An agility program involves running, jumping, balancing and quick turns on and around equipment specifically designed for agility training and is physically demanding.  Pay attention to your dog’s exhaustion level and attention span and take breaks now and then to give the dog a physical and mental rest.  Increase the physical and mental demands only when your dog is ready for the next level.

By increasing your dog’s physical activity they will need additional nutrition, so adjust the amount of food your giving.  You may look into changing the type of food so that they are getting the high protein diet they require.  The dog will also be more tired and have sore muscles especially in the beginning.  Make your training sessions short in the beginning and gradually increase the length of your workouts.

As you begin agility training here are some things to keep in mind:

  • Always have plenty of fresh water readily available for the dog.
  • Provide a cool, shady spot where your dog can rest.
  • Feed your dog a balanced high protein diet.  You may want to consider a natural dog food.
  • Never let the dog become overheated.  You may want to train in the morning or evening to avoid the heat of the day.
  • Keep an eye on their feet and legs for abrasions and/or cuts.
  • Especially at first, be aware that the dog may have sore muscles and stiffness, so go easy.
  • If you plan on attending a formal agility training program take note of where they hold the training, if it’s indoors make sure there is plenty of ventilation so your dog doesn’t become overheated.
  • And above all, make agility training fun for both you and your dog.

The Dog’s First Year and the Dog Leash.

March 8, 2009
posted by breezy

Beginning the process of dog training with a young puppy is a very time consuming endeavor but here’s a trick to make it a little easier.  If your puppy is a small or toy breed it isn’t to difficult to catch up with and grab them, but if your puppy is of a larger breed you can spend half your time chasing them down.  The one thing you don’t want to do is to let the puppy know that they can out run you.  Once they discover they can run faster than you, you have lost the battle.

One dog training technique that can be used is to attach a leash to their dog collar when the puppy is out of their crate.  Using the dog leash inside the homebasset-puppy-on-leash can present some problems though.  If you use a traditional leash that has the cord looped in a circle for the handle, your dog will get caught on every piece of furniture in the house and the handle will catch under doors as well.  To prevent this from happening, cut the handle off.  If your like me, it will be hard to make myself cut the handle off of a “brand new” expensive leash.  But, what you can do is either purchase a very cheap leash, or maybe a friend has an old leash you can have, or use an appropriately sized rope or twine.

By having the rope or dog leash attached to their collar you will be able to catch your dog when they attempt to run from you by grabbing or stepping on the leash.  The leash is also great for getting the dog’s attention when using the verbal command “No”.   It gives you better control without  getting your hands close to their mouth and possibly receiving a bite while trying to grab their collar.  A very important note, always be aware of where your dog is while on the leash because the leash can still become tangled around furniture legs and other obstacles.

If your puppy chews on the leash or rope you can remedy that by spraying “Bitter Apple” or a similar product on the leash.

No matter what room you’re in take them with you and shut the door or use a portable child’s gate.  That way they are free to explore and learn and you’re right there if corrections are needed.  This will also allow you to catch them before they do any major damage to your furniture or belongings.  If they are misbehaving attach the leash to a door or cabinet handle or a piece of furniture to limit what they have access to and how far they can roam.   If you do this for their first year they’ll become used to being with you and as they become older they will want to stay close to you even off the leash.

Our Dog the Schnauzer

March 4, 2009
posted by breezy

I’ve had several dogs in my time, but I would have to say that the most challenging one is Smokey who currently resides at our home. It has not only been a challenge to bring him around to our (the pack leader’s) way of thinking, which required obedience training, but I have to say that he has been the most rewarding one to train because of his intelligence, perceptiveness and his willingness to please. Although, his willingness to please was not evident until he relinquished his position as pack leader.
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Schnauzers are very intelligent, curious, playful, loving, and affectionate. After saying that, I have to say they can be head-strong, defiant, possessive and protective (to a fault).

I’ve met several schnauzer owners who agree that they are very intelligent & loving dogs and they also agree that they can really try your patience because they will test and test you again to see if you are going to stick to the rules that you have established during your obedience training. Smokey is a little over 3 years now and he will still, once in awhile, test to see if he can sneak in the door without sitting first and waiting for the command to enter.dove-dog-training3

I have said to others, “that I’ve never had a dog who challenged me so intellectually”. The obedience trainer said that Smokey’s temperament and level of intelligence was that of the “pack leader” and Smokey was not willing to give up his birthright, at least not without a fight.

There was a time between the age of 6 to 8 months I considered finding a home for him other than ours, but the trainer at the obedience school kept encouraging me to stick with it.  He said, “don’t get rid of him because those type of dogs will generally make great pets“. He was right!

I am very happy to report that at 3 years old he has good manners (most of the time), is very devoted, loving, affectionate and brings to our life a great deal of joy and laughter.